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Hasselbeck Cheese - limburger was a part of the sweet smell of success

Our kitchen is often full of Ger- GREGORY $150,000 firm by naming himself, shelves Hasselbeck maintained an ing Hasselbeck brands into Borden
man delicacies. You can find WITUL his son Martin Jr. his brother-in- ongoing inventory of a half a mil- brands. Clarence would become a
spaetzle, potato pancakes, and sau- law William F. Neureuter, and his lion pounds of cheese and with national director of Borden in
erkraut on the stove top with a business was booming, he soon son-in-laws Frank Lasiewicz and profits soaring, national brands 1941. Clarence would later be
leberkase cooking in the oven and expanded his offerings to include Adam Arnet to the board of direc- took notice of the company. In replaced by his brother Harry N.
a few bottles of hefeweizen in the fish and in 1888 used some of the tors. July 1929 Borden inked a deal Neureuter in 1948 who would
refrigerator next to our favorite profits to help form the Northeast with Martin Hasselbeck Jr. for oversee much of the sales of the
Rieslings from the Finger Lakes. Permanent Savings and Loan As- Now, under one umbrella, $400,000. firm for the next 13 years.
sociation. Hasselbeck Cheese continued
But, of all the tasty pleasures opening factories across New As part of the deal Martin en- In 1955 Borden's Buffalo
that cross the threshold there is one A Republican, Martin was en- York with one in Augusta that couraged Borden to keep the Has- Brand Limburger could still be
that is verboten, limburger cheese. couraged to follow his brother Ja- exclusively made brick limburger. selbeck name and the Neureuter found at Sattler’s for 49¢. Hassel-
While there is nothing better than cob into politics with an 1894 run At its height the company would family with the company. In the beck would be included in the
limburger and onions on rye, my for the Erie County Board of Su- own 25 cheese factories across the end William F. Neureuter Sr. 100th birthday celebration of Bor-
better half can’t stand the ever- pervisors representing the 13th state run by well known cheese would maintain his post as presi- den in 1957, where the Buffalo
present smell. Of course if I had Ward. Running against Christian makers including Robert Rupp, dent of the new subsidiary. firm was highlighted as one of the
Hasselbeck Cheese’s Buffalo "Nuge" Scheuler, Hasselbeck Gotlieb Schild, Leo Kutter, and oldest cheese companies in the
Brand Jar Limburger, the smell highlighted the many men from Anton and Emma Kutter. The Neureuters would remain U.S. with annual sales of nearly $1
wouldn’t be an issue. the ward he employed, the value of active in Hasselbeck Cheese for million.
his company, and the fact he The year 1911 would be a hard generations. When William Sr.
Martin Hasselbeck was born in wasn’t connected to any of the one for Hasselbeck Cheese. It passed away in 1934 his son Clar- But Hasselbeck Cheese’s days
October of 1851 to Catherine and political machines. started that April when Frank ence took over for him. Clarence were numbered. In 1961 Harry
Jacob Hasselbeck, Sr., in Stein- Lasiewicz accidentally fell over would further integrate Borden in- Neureuter retired. In response Bor-
feld, Kingdom of Bavaria. Much That November Martin beat the rail of the Americana and to Hasselbeck by eliminating den spun out Hasselbeck’s sales
of Martin’s early life revolved Christian 938 to 539 and would drowned in the Niagara River. cheese production and transform- department head by Howard R.
around his family living in Lower represent the 13th for much of the While the family grieved they sol- Neureuter, but retained all the
Franconia. rest of the decade. diered on running the company. firm’s assets and created a sales
department of its own. Seeing that
At age 17 Martin and his older When he wasn’t making Erie On the morning of May 17, competing with Borden was an
sister Margret left the emerging County a better place, Hasselbeck Martin was at the company head- impossible task Howard closed
German Empire to join their oldest worked hard to grow his business quarters on Jefferson, when not down Hasselbeck’s. In April of
sibling Jacob Jr. who had settled in and began acquiring dairy plants feeling well he decided to go home 1965 Borden moved its operations
Buffalo, NY a year earlier. Once in across the state. By 1897 Martin at noon. Two hours later he suf- out of 600 Jefferson Ave. and with
the U.S., Martin worked for a had expanded his holdings to nine fered a massive stroke and passed it brought an end to the last rem-
number of employers but it would plants in Erie, Oneida, Genesee, away that evening. With the nant of Hasselbeck Cheese Com-
be the passing of his father that and Wyoming counties and even founder gone, responsibility of the pany of Buffalo.
spurred him to chart his own began producing his own brand of company fell to Martin Jr. who
course in life. mustard. guided the firm until his retirement
in 1917.
In 1876 he began laying the With an ever-expanding prod-
ground work for what would be- uct line and market share, keeping It would be William F.
come a sprawling food empire his goods fresh became paramount Neureuter Sr. who would see Has-
when he started his own coffee for Hasselbeck. To ensure that his selbeck Cheese through the Roar-
extract manufacturing plant at his food didn’t spoil, Martin built a ing 20s and its age of consumerism.
home on 214 Madison. two-story, brick, cold storage
warehouse at 600 Jefferson at the Neureuter took to his new posi-
For two years Hasselbeck corner of George St. in the spring tion with gusto, coming up with
worked out of his home before of 1902 for $16,000. new branding ideas and products.
moving next to his brother Jacob’s To separate Hasselbeck from the
flourishing contracting business at As his business grew across the rest of the chesse market he creat-
592 Jefferson. There he added a state and beyond Martin needed to ed Buffalo Brand in 1922, with a
saloon and grocery store to his formalize his company and on logo that included a distinctive bi-
extract business. March 26, 1904 Hasselbeck son standing within a circle.
Cheese Company of Buffalo was
By 1885 Martin had built up a born. Martin kept control of the William also saw Hasselbeck
strong clientele of Germans who get national recognition when at
were always looking for flavors of the 1923 Dairy Expo the compa-
home, so in that year he began ny’s American-Swiss cheese took
selling Swiss cheese wholesale in a bronze, and its brick cheese
the neighborhood. In short order brought home the silver.
Hasselbeck’s wholesale cheese
In early 1925 Hasselbeck in-
troduced a product that would February-March 2018 • •3
launch a whole new line of cheeses
for them, Buffalo Brand Jar Lim-
burger. The cheese that spread like
butter was an instant success and
in 1926 a Swiss cheese and Swiss
spread with pimentos were added
to the line. To promote the prod-
ucts the E. P. Remington Advertis-
ing Agency was hired to handle
the newspaper advertising while
colorful ink blotters were given
out as a point of sale promotion.

As the spread flew off the
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